Takaoka Over Kanazawa? Discover Two National Treasure Temples and A Best-Kept Secret in Japan’s Cultural Heartland
- Shinya Yamada
- May 9
- 3 min read
Updated: May 10
A Best-Kept Secret in Japan’s Cultural Heartland
While Kanazawa draws much of the spotlight as the cultural capital of the Kaga Domain, Takaoka City in neighboring Toyama Prefecture remains an overlooked gem—yet it boasts not one, but two National Treasure temples: Zuiryuji and Shokoji. In contrast, Kanazawa has none. Takaoka, in my view, remains one of Japan’s best-kept secrets in its cultural heartland.
On May 4, before attending the Johana Hikiyama Festival, I took the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Takaoka Station and explored the city by rental bicycle. I visited the magnificent Shokoji Temple, the Great Buddha of Takaoka, and the Amaharashi Coast, rediscovering just how rich this city is in cultural heritage.
Although I didn’t visit it this time, Zuiryuji Temple—built to honor Maeda Toshinaga, the second head of the Maeda clan—is, in my view, one of the most architecturally stunning Zen temples in Japan. Its imposing layout and solemn atmosphere left a lasting impression on me during a previous visit.
Why Takaoka Matters in Japanese History
Takaoka was a crucial city within the Kaga Domain, one of Japan’s wealthiest and most powerful feudal domains under the Maeda family. While Kanazawa served as the domain’s administrative seat, the Maeda’s influence extended across the modern-day regions of Ishikawa and Toyama, including the provinces of Kaga, Noto, and Etchu.
Shokoji Temple: A New National Treasure
Designated a National Treasure in 2022, Shokoji Temple belongs to the Jodo Shinshu Honganji-ha school of Buddhism. It was originally founded by the revered monk Rennyo as Tsuchiyama Gobo. Remarkably, Maeda Harunaga, the 11th head of the Maeda family, served as its head priest from the age of 10 to 23—evidence of the temple’s deep ties to the ruling clan.
Shokoji’s main hall is one of the largest late Edo-period structures in the region, and when you see it in person, its scale is closer to that of a castle than a temple. Alongside the main hall, both the Grand Hall and Formal Reception Hall were also designated as National Treasures. Inside the Grand Hall is a rare jodan-no-ma—an elevated room traditionally reserved for imperial envoys. It's almost unheard of to find such a room in a rural temple.
Don’t Miss the Shoin and Its Treasures
The temple’s shoin (study hall) is another highlight, home to the treasured Rakuchu Rakugai Byobu, a pair of six-panel folding screens that are designated as Important Cultural Properties. These stunning works depict a bird’s-eye view of Kyoto during the Edo period, featuring detailed renderings of Nijo Castle, the Imperial Palace, Honganji, Fushimi Castle, Sanjusangendo, Kiyomizu Temple, Yasaka Pagoda, the Kamo River, Yoshida Shrine, Kurama, the Kamo Shrines, Kitano Tenmangu, Kinkakuji, Arashiyama—and even seasonal festivals like the Gion Matsuri and evocative winter scenes. The artistry and historical insight captured in these screens are truly rare.
A Temple Built on Ancient Ground
The temple stands on what is believed to be the site of the Etchu provincial capital (kokufu) during the Nara period (710-794)—equivalent to a modern-day prefectural government seat. In ancient Japan, there were about 60 to 70 such kokufu. Notably, Otomo no Yakamochi, a key compiler of the Manyoshu (Japan’s oldest poetry anthology), served here as the provincial governor. Three stone monuments bearing his poems still stand within the temple grounds.
Next Blog: Takaoka’s Coastal Beauty and a Doraemon Surprise
In my next post, I’ll introduce the Amaharashi Coast, famously praised by Otomo no Yakamochi and featured in the Manyoshu. This poetic seaside landscape continues to captivate travelers across generations. I’ll also explore Takaoka’s fascinating connection with Doraemon, one of Japan’s most beloved animated characters—don’t miss it!
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How to Access Kagurazaka
The Kagurazaka area is conveniently located within 30 minutes from any major station in Tokyo. This is because Kagurazaka is situated in the heart of Tokyo, at the center of the Yamanote Line. Please come and visit this convenient and charming Kagurazaka.
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