The Complete Guide to Izakaya in Japan [2025 Edition] | Tokyo's Best Gourmet Town, Kagurazaka

1. A Door to the Japanese Night: Welcome to the Izakaya!

As the Tokyo sky melts into shades of crimson and the neon lights of Shinjuku's skyscrapers begin to glow, a single question likely enters your mind:

"Where should I go for dinner tonight?"

Of course, world-class restaurants and a simple, delicious bowl of ramen are both fantastic options. But have you ever found yourself captivated by the warm, inviting light of a red paper lantern—an akachochin—hanging on a street corner?

That light marks the entrance to a place where the true essence of a Japanese evening is condensed: the Izakaya.

"Is an izakaya a bar? Or is it a restaurant?" This is a question every first-time visitor to Japan asks.

In short, an izakaya is close to a "Japanese-style pub" or a "dining bar." But we prefer to describe it more affectionately as a "gastronomic paradise for adults" or "Japan's communal dining room."

It's where people unwind with colleagues after a long day's work and where friends gather to share stories. It's a space filled with delicious food, great Japanese sake, and the vibrant energy of laughter and conversation.

We understand that for a traveler, the truly local atmosphere might cause a moment's hesitation before stepping through that door.

But please, don't worry. If you can find the courage to open it, a world of authentic, everyday Japan—the kind you'll never find in guidebooks—and warm, genuine connections await you.

This article will demystify the charms of the izakaya and teach you everything you need to know to enjoy it to the fullest. So, let's open the door to a Japanese night together.

2. The A to Z of Izakaya in Japan: Your Guide to Dining with Confidence

Step into an izakaya, and you'll find yourself in a vibrant, energetic world. But its unique customs can sometimes be puzzling. Not to worry! Here are the "magic words" and essential knowledge you need to relax and have a fantastic time.

[A] Otōshi - The Mysterious First Dish?

Soon after you're seated, a small dish you didn't order will be brought to your table. This is the otōshi or tsukidashi.

• What is it? Think of it as a small "welcome" dish that also serves as a table charge, much like an amuse-bouche in a French restaurant. It is, in most cases, a paid item (typically ¥300-¥500).

  
  

  

  
  

• What should I do? It's a fundamental part of izakaya culture, so simply accept it and enjoy. The anticipation of "I wonder what today's otōshi will be?" is part of the fun. You'll often be treated to a dish that showcases the chef's skill and creativity.

  
  

• Insider Tip: Just like an amuse-bouche, the otōshi is often seen as a barometer of the restaurant's quality. A delicious otōshi is a great sign that the other dishes on the menu will be equally impressive.

  
  

[B] How to Order - "Sumimasen!" is the Magic Word

You've opened the menu and are ready to order. But how do you get the staff's attention?

• Getting Service: Look for a call button on your table. If there isn't one, the Japanese standard is to raise your hand slightly and say, clearly, "Sumimasen!" (Excuse me!). Don't be shy; say it with a bit of volume.

  
  

• The First Drink: When in doubt, do as the locals do and say, "Toriaezu Nama!" (A draft beer to start!). This is the classic phrase to kick off the evening's first "Kanpai!" (Cheers!). Some places offer different sizes; if you want a standard medium glass, you can say "Nama-chū." Of course, larger sizes are also available, but be warned: a "dai-jokki" (large mug) can sometimes be bigger than your face!

  
  

• Ordering Food: If the menu has pictures, simply point and say, "Kore, kudasai" (This one, please). The typical izakaya style is to order a few dishes at a time throughout the evening, rather than all at once. When ordering yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), you'll often be asked for your preference of seasoning: "Tare" (a sweet and savory soy-based sauce) or "Shio" (salt).

  
  

[C] How to Pay - A Smooth Finish

As your wonderful evening comes to an end, how do you settle the bill?

• Getting the Check: 

  
  

  Call the staff over with a "Sumimasen!" and say, "O-kaikei onegai shimasu" (The check, please). Making an "X" shape with your index fingers is also a universally understood gesture for "check, please."

  
  

• Where to Pay: 

  
  

  Depending on the establishment, you might pay at your table or take the bill to a cashier at the front. Observe what other customers are doing.

  
  

• Is Tipping Necessary? 

  
  

  No. There is no custom of tipping in Japan. The best way to show your appreciation for excellent service is with a smiling "Gochisōsama deshita!" (Thank you for the wonderful meal) as you leave. Your gratitude will be felt tenfold.

  
  

Master these three points, and you're no longer an izakaya novice. With your newfound confidence, it's time to talk about why, out of all the incredible neighborhoods in Tokyo, we so strongly recommend one in particular: Kagurazaka.

3. Among Countless Districts, Why is Kagurazaka the Best for Izakaya Hopping?

Now that you understand the basics of enjoying an izakaya, a new question arises: "So, where in Tokyo should I go?"

There's the glittering neon of Shinjuku, the trend-setting crossroads of Shibuya, the lively atmosphere under the railway tracks of Yurakucho... Tokyo is filled with fascinating entertainment districts.

However, if your wish is to experience an unforgettable, authentically Japanese night, our answer is singular and unwavering: Kagurazaka, just a 10-minute train ride from Shinjuku.

Let us tell you the special reasons why.

Reason ①: Little Kyoto in Tokyo - Stone-Paved Alleys Full of Charm

Kagurazaka's greatest allure is its stunning streetscape. Often called "Tokyo's Little Kyoto," the heart of this district is hidden just off the main street. Here, a labyrinth of narrow, stone-paved (ishidatami) alleys, barely wide enough for a car to pass, unfolds before you. Lined with traditional black-walled ryotei (high-end traditional restaurants) and glowing red lanterns, these alleys transport you to another world. The clamor of Tokyo feels a world away, replaced by a serene and elegant quietude. Simply walking here is a thrill in itself.

Reason ②: A Geisha District - A Sophisticated Social Hub Steeped in History

Kagurazaka once flourished as a kagai or geisha district. Even today, with 19 geisha still active in the area, its elegant and粋な (iki - chic, stylish) culture remains in the neighborhood's DNA.

Many of the exclusive ryotei, once accessible only to a select few, have been renovated into approachable izakayas and modern bars. Sipping a drink in a historic building feels like stepping back in time. It's a district that satisfies the sophisticated curiosity of any adult.

[Special Offer: An Evening with a Geisha]

Interested in meeting a geisha? We can certainly arrange that. For a separate charge, we can take you to an exclusive bar for a private meeting with a professional geisha we partner with, where you can chat and take photos. Please inquire for details.

Reason ③: The Thrill of a Treasure Hunt - Discovering Hidden Gems

Kagurazaka's true masterpieces are not listed in guidebooks or on map apps. They stand quietly, tucked away deep in the back alleys. "A restaurant... here?" You'll turn a corner and spot a tiny sign, or stumble upon the entrance to a hideaway so secluded it doesn't even have a sign. This sense of a "treasure hunt" is the very essence of izakaya hopping in Kagurazaka. The joy of discovering your own special spot is a priceless memory in the making.

Reason ④: The Objective Data Proves It - Tokyo's No. 1 Gourmet Area

You might think,"'Best Gourmet Town' is a bit of an exaggeration." But this is no mere marketing slogan. Objective data proves Kagurazaka's overwhelming superiority.

• Proof #1: The Highest Quality of Izakaya in Tokyo

  
  

  The data below, from Japan's largest restaurant review site "Tabelog," shows the percentage of izakayas in major Tokyo districts that have received a high rating (3.5 or above). This is the most honest metric of a district's "batting average" for deliciousness.

  
  

  

  
  

  Source: Tabelog; analysis by EDO KAGURA

  
  

  The results are clear. Kagurazaka's rate is more than 2.5 times higher than Shimbashi, widely considered the "holy land of izakaya," and over 4 times higher than Shinjuku. This proves Kagurazaka is a district that has perfected quality over quantity.

  
  

  And it’s not just izakayas; for all restaurant types, Kagurazaka also ranks No.1 with 18.1% of establishments rated 3.5 or higher.

  
  

  

  Source: Tabelog; analysis by EDO KAGURA

  
  
  
  

  Note on Methodology:

  
  

  • Area Selection: The areas were chosen based on the top 10 busiest JR and Tokyo Metro stations, plus the famous tourist hubs of Ginza, Asakusa, and Roppongi.

  • Data Source: The ranking is based on data from Tabelog, Japan's largest gourmet review site.

  • Criteria: We ranked the data for high-rated (score 3.5 or higher) restaurants and izakaya within an 800-meter radius of each station.

    
    

• Proof #2: A World-Class, Astonishing Density of Culinary Excellence

  
  

  Kagurazaka is an exceptional place even for the highest echelons of fine dining. It is home to 21 Michelin-listed restaurants, accounting for an astounding 47.7% of all Michelin restaurants in the massive Shinjuku ward. 

  
  

  To put it into perspective: In the entire culinary metropolis of Tokyo, only 12 restaurants have earned the highest honor of three Michelin stars. An incredible two restaurants (one-sixth of them) are found here, in the alleys of Kagurazaka. This means Kagurazaka is a miraculous town where the pinnacle of everyday dining (izakaya) and the pinnacle of special-occasion dining (Michelin-starred restaurants) coexist.

  
  

This is a district where food connoisseurs from all over Tokyo gather. Don't believe it? Ask the concierge at your hotel. Every single one of them will tell you: "Kagurazaka is a gourmet's town."

History, charm, and an overwhelming level of quality proven by objective data. Kagurazaka is a place where you don't just have a drink, you experience a story.

However, it's this very perfection and unique charm that can, in fact, create a few "Hurdles" for the first-time visitor.

4. But First, a Few "Hurdles" to Overcome in Kagurazaka...

By now, you must be eager to dive into the stone-paved alleys of Kagurazaka. But wait just a moment. The very charms that make this district so special can also present a few challenges for newcomers. This is because Kagurazaka isn't a theme park built for tourists; it's a real, living, breathing neighborhood.

Hurdle ①: The Maze

Those "treasure hunt-like alleys" can quickly turn into "I'm seriously lost" alleys. Even with a smartphone, Google Maps often loses its way on these narrow paths. Wandering in circles while you're getting hungry can quickly dampen the mood.

Hurdle②: The Courage Barrier

You venture into an alley, find a promising-looking shop, and peek through the noren (curtain). Inside, you hear the cheerful laughter of locals. The menu is handwritten in Japanese on the wall. Faced with this scene, many travelers hesitate. "Is it okay for me to go in?" "Will I seem out of place?" It’s a common story to lose your nerve and walk away.

Hurdle ③: The Language Barrier

Even if you get a seat, the next wall is language. This is especially true in the most authentic, delicious, old-school izakayas, where the menu is often a work of calligraphy. There are no photos, and the staff is busy. You end up ordering the only words you know (Yakitori, Edamame...), missing out on the restaurant's signature dish. We're not trying to scare you, but this is a reality: in Kagurazaka, where there are few foreign tourists, only 6% of restaurants have English menus. This is less than half the rate of Roppongi (14%) or Shibuya (12%).

Hurdle ④: The "Which Restaurant is Truly Great?"

The internet is overflowing with information, but not all of it is genuine. A place might have high ratings on a tourist review site, but in reality, it might be overpriced and mediocre. And as our data shows, Kagurazaka's density of quality presents a new, luxurious problem: "With so many great restaurants packed together, how do I possibly choose the perfect one for me tonight?" The true hidden gems, the ones the locals don't want to share, are nearly impossible to find in the sea of online information.

Faced with these walls, the last thing we want is for you to come all the way to Japan, make the trip to Kagurazaka, and end up having dinner at a generic chain restaurant.

"So, is it impossible for a first-timer to truly enjoy Kagurazaka?"

No, not at all. There is a "perfect shortcut" that magically removes all of these walls.

5. The Secret to a 120% Kagurazaka Experience: A Specialized Izakaya Hopping Tour!

We've talked about the allure of Kagurazaka and the few walls that exist.

"I want to explore without getting lost, without worrying about the language, and relax in a fantastic place that only locals know, surrounded by local people..."

The magic key that grants all of these wishes is the one we proudly offer: our specialized Kagurazaka Izakaya Hopping Tour.

See for yourself how our tour breaks down every single wall:

• Hurdle ①: The Maze

  
  

  → With a guide, it becomes the ultimate scenic walk. No more staring at maps. Our guides, who know Kagurazaka inside and out, will lead you along the most charming routes to the best establishments. It's the perfect approach to the perfect izakaya. Freed from the stress of getting lost, you can focus on simply soaking in the beauty of the town.

  
  

• Hurdle ②: The Courage Barrier

  
  

  → Your guide is your "face pass." That intimidating noren becomes a welcoming entrance when you're with a local guide. When your guide cheerfully greets the owner, you are no longer an outsider. You'll be warmly welcomed and blend right in.

  
  

• Hurdle ③: The Language Barrier

  
  

  → Your guide is your personal translator and food concierge. Even handwritten menus hold no secrets. Our guides will explain each item, recommend hidden specialties, and help you choose the perfect sake to match your tastes. An adventure in flavor that you could never have by just pointing at pictures awaits.

  
  

• Hurdle ④: The "Which Restaurant is Truly Great?"

  
  

  → We only know the authentic best. Our tour visits only the true gems beloved by locals, discovered through years of personal experience. By visiting 2-3 different types of establishments, you can experience the deep charm of Kagurazaka from multiple angles in a short amount of time. And if you are a vegetarian or have food allergies, it's no problem. We will take you to izakayas that can accommodate your needs.

  
  

A Promise from Our Founder

Hello. My name is Shinya Yamada, and I am the founder of EDO KAGURA Corporation, the company that hosts this tour.

Why are we so confident in the restaurants we choose? Because I, myself, have lived in Kagurazaka for 25 years. As a lover of good food and drink, I have spent every week exploring these back alleys, discovering the true masterpieces that you will never find in the data, using my own two feet and my own palate. Over these 25 years, I have visited more than 1,000 izakayas.

The data proves Kagurazaka is the best. My 25 years of experience guarantee that you will experience the best of the best. Above all else, I moved to Kagurazaka simply because I love izakayas.

As a local resident who loves to drink, I will personally guide you to my favorite spots in Japan's No. 1 gourmet town. I am certain that a better izakaya hopping tour does not exist in Japan—or anywhere else in the world.

We do more than just guide you. Along the way and inside the izakayas, our guides—who also lead traditional culture tours—will share fascinating stories about the history and culture of Kagurazaka and Japan. You can learn about "living" Japanese culture while sitting in an izakaya.

As it's not yet world-famous, Kagurazaka has very few foreign tourists. The people around you are locals. Sharing a "Kanpai!" and a laugh with them is more than just a meal; it's a memory of international connection that will last a lifetime. Delicious food, wonderful drinks, surrounded by local people, and engaged in lively conversation. Isn't this the izakaya hopping tour you were truly looking for?

Kagurazaka is in Shinjuku, the same ward as the world-famous Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho. But the experience is entirely different. Here in Kagurazaka, you can have an authentic night surrounded by local people—an experience you simply cannot have in those other bustling tourist spots.

There's only one thing you need to do: come with an empty stomach and a curious heart.

Isn't it time to stop traveling by just looking at social media and guidebooks? The real information isn't online. Join us for an adventure into the real Japanese night.

P.S. To date, every participant on our izakaya hopping tour has given us a perfect rating. This is a tour that has impressed concierges from many luxury hotels and agents from high-end travel companies. We want to see your smile next. Let's journey through the izakayas of Kagurazaka together. It will undoubtedly be the most memorable night of your trip to Japan.

Click here for details and booking for the Kagurazaka Izakaya Hopping Tour

Kagurazaka Izakaya Hopping Tour

Book Each Experience

Kagurazaka Walking Tour

Ukiyo-e Woodblock Printing

Zen Meditation

Kumihimo Braiding

Samurai Sword Training

Dyeing

Kagurazaka Geisha

Izakaya (Pub) Tour

KIGUMI MUSEUM Tour

"Noh Experience" at Yarai Noh Theater

Wagashi Workshop

Tofu Workshop

Tea Ceremony

Tea Ceremony in Yukata

Washoku Cooking Class

Clothing Rental (Samue or Outdoor Wear)

How to Access Kagurazaka

The Kagurazaka area is conveniently located within 30 minutes from any major station in Tokyo. This is because Kagurazaka is situated in the heart of Tokyo, at the center of the Yamanote Line. Please come and visit this convenient and charming Kagurazaka.